I traded my cousin some really expensive RAM that I happened accross for his old desktop, that he put his graphics card into that he swapped from his newer computer. If I plug the desktop into the wall and try to turn it on nothing happens. If I open it up I can see that the where the wire from the power supply plugs into the motherboard there Is a little light on. So clearly some power is getting somewhere…
How do I go about trouble shooting this, and what tools do I need? I assume at minimum a multi meter? Not really sure what to do, it’s been decades the last time I built a computer.
Okay, most absolute basic troubleshoot check: is there an on/off switch on the power supply that might be off?
Yes, there is one on the back of the case that I switched on.
If it were off, I would assume there wouldn’t be anything to power that tiny light near the Graphic card connector.
Edit… not an assumption anymore. If you turn the switch off, the light turns off.
Make sure the RAM is seated correctly. If the tabs on the sides of the modules are not fully locked, the module is not seated. This will cause the system not to boot.
Seconding this. If they don’t clock, they still feel in. They gotta CLICK.
Have you checked to make sure all the cables are seated? Unplug them and plug them back in.
What wattage is the PSU?
You could try taking the GPU out entirely and see if it gets anywhere. If it runs fine without the GPU it’s probably wanting way more power than your PSU can provide. I doubt that’s the issue for various reasons, but it’s a possibility.
My guess would be the PSU as well. It could be dead, or not plugged in right, or underpowered. Pulling out the GPU is a great idea. At least if it boots that provides some direction.
Just jumping in here to let you know that most of the people here missed one of the most basic and first steps in pc repair… CLEAR THE CMOS!!!
There might be a jumper on the mb but the easy way is to remove the battery and try to turn the power on and off a few times.
Replace the battery and the computer should try to POST.
I know it seems crazy but sometimes computers that won’t post had major hardware changes and the bios won’t let power through. Not sure why but clearing the cmos will revert to defaults and get you to the next step of troubleshooting.
Source: 20 years pc repair technician.
Also 20 plus years. This will fix a ton of boot issues.
This, I used an old board and it didn’t work until I replaced the (button) battery . After that, you can troubleshoot the board adding components one by one and listening to the beeps. There’s a code. Left the GPU as last element and use the integrated one always until all is working. If a external GPU doesn’t work, it could be not enough power. If memory fails, beeps again, try to find a working one and go from there…
I might be asking a dumb question here, this is the right community for that after all. But have you asked your cousin what might be wrong?
He doesn’t live near me, and it supposedly booted before he gave it to me. If I understand correctly, he had a family friend that has a PC repair business assemble the old one, with the old card from his newer computer. Everything seems professionally done with all the fancy zip tie cord management… but I don’t know.
It’s been a while since I worked on this, so maybe I will text him and see if I can refresh my memory.
So it worked and he gave it to you, and when it arrived at your place it no longer worked? I’d try checking that all the internal cables are connected properly; one of them may have jostled loose in the journey.
So it worked and he gave it to you, and when it arrived at your place it no longer worked?
Yep, that’s the story. He’s a good guy, so I have no reason to doubt it. If there are any shenanigans, it would be the guy at the shop (that I don’t personally know) maybe tricking him into showing it booting properly. But that seems far fetched.
Is there a particular order to work through, that makes most sense troubleshooting wise? My hand is having trouble being nimble enough to reach a lot of places.
Depending on what cpu it is, you should be able to try it without the gpu. Also Google the mobo and try to find its manual. The manual will tell you things like what you can plug in and where. It’ll tell you compatibility crap too. You’ll have two spots on the back where you plug in the displayport/hdmi cable for your monitor – the gpu, and the mobo. Use mobo port and take out the gpu and see if it starts. POST is key. My old gigabyte was a badass and had a led number box so troubleshooting was cake. With other ones, there’s gonna be miscellaneous spots with lil lights that’ll blink (the manual for the mobo will tell you)
Edit: Is it possible there aren’t lights? I read through this a few times and don’t see anything.
Amazingly the computer came with the motherboard manual. I think something was wrong or a component was incompatible with the old one, and they had this one available.
Someone else suggested buying a speaker to hook up so I can hear the beeps. Do the lights provide the same info as the beeps?
I poked around at your manual lol.
#11. System panel. One left of it is for the wee speaker.
Also check that your chassis is wired up to this correctly, or, better yet, you can be a madlad and unplug it all and see what works. The caveat to that is… you have to know what order to do that in. Generally, your power supply has wires that go to all sorts of stuff, make dang sure you don’t power your cpu for very long without the fan/cooler. Once you know the cpu power and fan is working, keep plugging more stuff in til you find the problem.
I’d also mention if anyone hasn’t, be mindful of static.Do the lights provide the same info as the beeps?
Yes, but whether you have lights or just beeps depends on your board. I think yours does not have the lights, just the speaker pins.
Yeah. There should be a page in the manual with a diagram of your board and it’ll tell you where.
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The MB probably doesn’t jive with the GPU. Look up online for the MB manufacturer if it supports that sort of GPU.
If your RAM is seated as 1 and 2, make it 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.
Fans usually means the BIOS is recognizing some hardware as funky. I had this same issue when I bought RAM that was incompatible with my MB.
Unless the GPU is an Arc, compatibility between the motherboard and GPU shouldn’t affect much more than the maximum performance you can squeeze out of the GPU. As a protocol, PCIe is backwards compatible.
If your RAM is seated as 1 and 2, make it 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.
Never assume. RTFM when trying to use dual channel memory.
First thing. If you stick your hand in the case, make sure the powercord is disconnected from the power supply, and then press the powerbutton. This discharges capacitors.
Don’t fret too mich, it’s like Lego, most stuff only first one way, and you don’t need much force to plug or remove stuff. If you need to use more force than you can apply with your finger, mostly you are missing a latch, hook or something else that is holding the thing in place… check again.
The machine has an onboard Videocard. So a good option is to remove the Videocard and test the system to see if it gives any sign of life without the graphics card.
Removing the graphics is a bit tricky as it usually has a little latch near the back of the connector it is in on the motherboard (check a quick YouTube video on removing a graphics card).
Then try if it starts.
Then check all the connectors if they are seated properly. Especially all the small cables in the motherboard, they listen really carefully and must be on the correct headers.
Check if it starts again.
Remove and re-seat the internal memory. I’d recommend quick YouTube video here too. It only fits one way.
Check start again.
Then disconnect all other devices like the harddisk etc. just pull the cable on the drive side and leave it dangling… it’s only for testing.
Of none of this works, I’d recommend getting the guy that traded it help you out.
Is it posting? There should be led indicators that flash, usually an array of them. (The pattern as it lights up means stuff.) and if connected to a monitor, it should also flash some kind of boot screen. If it completes posting, it’ll at least go to bios. If the LEDs aren’t flashing at all…
the first step is to pull everything out and re-seat it. (Ram, gpu, power, etc.)
Start with seating the power sockets (to mobo, the minimum needed RAM, cpu and cpu fan (connected to cpu_fam header; usually next to the cpu).
Side note on ram, if it’s dual-channel or more, it matters where the ram goes. Consult your manual.
I do think it’s a good idea to do what you did and just try it as is, since there’s actually a pretty decent chance that it just works.
However, if it doesn’t work, i would check everything as if i’m building the PC from scratch. Are the parts compatible (good old pcpartpicker is here for that), is the PSU sufficient, is everything plugged in the way the manuals say, etc
Is the light on the motherboard or inside the metal box for the power supply?
More of the old, old ones would not do anything if any component was not properly seated. So maybe unplug and replug everything?
And if that doesn’t work, I would start systematically removing components to see if I could get a different response from the computer.
Sorry, I hadn’t had it fully opened on the other side… it’s actually the graphics card that has a light. I got tricked when I was looking in from the other side.
That power connector is not supposed to hang loose in the air. Check the handbook for the mainboard to find out where it’s supposed to connect to.
It’s plugged in. I believe those are extra for something else thar he ziptied to the graphics connection. Here are a couple images.
It’s fine. The PCI-e is another one for a graphics card that requires more connectors to be attached.
The 6-pin connector? That very much looks OK to me. I don’t see where it would go.
However there’s disconnected 2 pins on the graphics card.
That gpu looks like it only has 6 pins, not 8, so it could be fine.
It looks to me like that’s a 6+2 connector and they only needed the 6-pin so the +2 is just left dangling, which afaik is fine.
I saw 8 solder blobs, but I’m not sure if it’s actually an 8 pin anymore.
Oh, yeah, okay, good point. I didn’t notice the solder. I’m not sure if it’s actually a six pin anymore. I have zero clue how an 8 pin GPU would react to only having 6 pins.
If you look closely on the upper picture in this reply, you can see, that there is only a 6-pin connector, the 2 extra soldering points are unused.
Looking at the Asrock product page, there is only an additional 8-pin-connector at the top left, no 4-pin.
The power supply connect with the motherboard in more than one place. If “the wire from the power supply plugs into the motherboard” is a thing, that may be your problem.
Unplug anything that is optional (that includes disks and stuff that you have more than 1, like maybe memory sticks) and try to power the computer. If it works, replug stuff one by one.
As BigMikeInAustin said, remove everything and plug it again. I’d add to get a paint brush and clean stuff a bit in between if it’s dusty. Make sure to clean plugs and contacts, try not to clean electronic components.
Try to remove the board’s battery for a few minutes and turn the computer on again. Some times that’s enough.
Also, turn the computer on for a minute or two, turn it off, unplug everything, and touch the surfaces to see if they are hot. Try not to touch any printed circuit board.
Second unplugging all optional components (RAM is not optional) - and the video card in particular. A card that pulls more power than your power supply can provide could do exactly what you are seeing.
Are you getting any POST codes?
? Remember my knowledge is basic.
It doesn’t seem to turn on at all, there is no workable video output.
So the circle is where a little speaker should be attached:
Sometimes these come with the case, but in your case not apparently or the PC guy would have attached it. You can buy these pretty cheap (one or two bucks) and they look like this:
When you have one attached and start the PC the mainboard will run some tests, and if it detects a problem there will be a pattern of beeps coming out of the speaker. You can look up what this pattern means in the handbook somebody linked above.
POST codes are beeps. None of those at all?
There might not even be a speaker installed
Nope, nothing. The light on the case button doesn’t activate, there are no noises or beeping, the fans don’t spin. The only sign of electricity at all is a small light where it connects to the graphics card.
POST means Power On Self-Test. All motherboards will run some diagnostics and detect basic problems (e.g. missing RAM, no boot media).
If the motherboard beeps, you can look up the motherboard and see what the number of beeps means.
Do the fans spin up at all?
No, that’s probably what’s so alarming. You expect fan noise, but nothing spins.
Make sure the power button is connected to the board. Use the diagram in this PDF to locate it.
I don’t see a spot for it on diagram or board. Everything is ziptied together, so it’s not easy to trace back right now. The system panel header is plugged in. USB 3_3_4 is plugged. CPU fan connector is plugged.
Chassis Fan connector not plugged. USB 4_5 not plugged. Chassis intrusion and speaker header not plugged. TPM header not plugged.
Where is says panel 1 is the correct place for the connectors to the front of the case. Two of those pins are for the power button. Make sure the connector that says pwr, both + and -, are connected to the pins on the board that are labeled pwr.
That’s just a sanity check to make sure the power button is correctly connected. Something less common could be the power button is broken but we won’t go there just yet.
